Late Art Deco or Early Retro Old Cut 14k Gold Platinum Tank Ring

This striking transitional ring bridges the shift from late Art Deco geometry to the bold modernism of the 1940s. It is set with twelve old mine cut diamonds totaling approximately 4.00 carats, graded I–J color and SI clarity, framed by sixteen antique single cuts with an additional weight of approximately 0.35 carat. The stones are mounted in platinum over 14 karat gold and the ring can be dated circa 1937-1942; jewelers in the US were no longer able to use platinum for jewelry after the country entered WWII, as the metal was restricted for wartime use.

The design reflects the architectural precision that defined late Art Deco jewelry, with stepped construction, symmetry, and a commanding presence on the hand. Yet the heavy, sculptural form anticipates the so-called “tank” style that would dominate the early 1940s, named for its resemblance to the massive, streamlined shapes of wartime machinery and architecture. Pieces like this exemplify the stylistic evolution from the linear refinement of the 1930s to the powerful, gold-driven aesthetic of the Retro era.

This is a rare piece of American jewelry history, showing the transition between two iconic eras and examples of which do not commonly appear on the market. 

US ring size 7.75, cannot be resized.